Mexico 2009 Day 9 - April 4

We got up before the alarm but took our time getting ready. After showers and a granola bar for mini-breakfast, we headed to La Cazuela M & J for a more substantial meal. Jess ordered scrambled eggs with cheese (served with tortillas, tomatoes, onions and a slice of mashed potato cake), tea and OJ, while Jer had a cazuela (eggs and cheese in a shallow terracotta crock, with tomatoes, ham, mushrooms and herbs) and a coffee. The cazuela was huge and tasty, and we were quite full when we left. We headed back to the hotel so that Jer could fix his contacts (one was inside-out) and we could refill our water bottles, before heading to the ferry terminal.

By mistake, we ended up getting tickets to the local ferry, not the Ultramar, which meant we were the only non-Mexicans aboard. It took about the same time, and there were plenty of combis available. After a brief discussion with a guard, we learned that we need to switch at the ADO bus station for a southbound combi to get to the Crococun Zoo. It was a longer ride than Jess remembered, and our combi driver forgot to stop, but we yelped and he pulled over just a few meters beyond the entrance.

Crococun was awesome! They require you to go with a guide because many of the animals roam free in their enclosures, and the guides show you how to touch them. We fed and got kisses from green and blue macaws, held baby crocodiles, held or petted a red tegu (lizard) and other reptiles, petted and fed a herd of tiny white-tailed deer, walked through an enclosure with 35-40 large crocs and fed wild spider monkeys (as well as some that were formerly pets). One wild monkey even tried to steal Jess's hairclip; a guide had to save her by waving a stick at the would-be thief! We also saw a number of other animals with which we weren't allowed to interact, such as green iguanas, spiny lizards, basilisks, Aztec dogs (aka Mexican hairless dogs, they look like big chihuahuas with mohawks), margays (like ocelots, only large housecat-sized), coatis (a relative of raccoons) and a large variety of snakes, not to mention river crocodiles and swamp of many sizes (from one foot to about eight feet in length). We were so enchanted with Crococun that we repeated the tour a second time.

After a cold drink at Crococun's snack bar, we took a combi back to Cancun. Jess chatted with a nice French-Canadian couple who'd been on the last tour with us; we paid their combi fare of 30 pesos (about $2), as they only had US dollars in large denominations. Jer chatted with a nice Mexican guy who'd lived in NJ (and had sons there, apparently). When we reached Cancun, the combi dropped us off sooner than we'd expected, due to a street closure, but we were able to get directions to the bus station and find the combi to Puerto Juarez. The combi driver really wanted to drop us off at the Ultramar terminal, but Jer convinced him to take us to the local terminal instead (since we already had return tickets for the local ferry).

The ferry ride was uneventful (Jer watched some lucha libre, Mexican professional wrestling) on the ferry's tv, while Jess got a good look at the Cancun hotel zone, as it was a very clear day. We were happy not to be staying there, as all the resorts look immense and very similar.

When we landed on Isla Mujeres, we headed straight to Rolandi's, so we could compare the pizza to Pepe Nero's. We had ham, mushrooms and olives - the crust was better and the toppings were fresh, but it wasn't spectacular. We noticed the Mexicans at the next table were ordering non-pizza entrees, though, so if we ever go to Rolandi's again maybe we'll try the famous salt-baked fish. We watched a bridal party walk by (to the cheers and applause of passers-by), looking relaxed and happy.

After finishing our meal, we walked up to Playa Norte and walked west this time, again burying our toes in the sand (and having the Caribbean lap at our toes unexpectedly, which made Jess yelp). The sunset was beautiful, with lovely sunbeams streaming above and below the clouds. We watched until the red sun-disk disappeared into Cancun. It was a great last sunset in Mexico!

After a brief stop back at our hotel, we went to a nearby bar that was advertising caipirinhas - Jer felt compelled to try them and, since it was 2-for-1, so did Jess. They were decent, but not great - a little too sweet and a bit watery, but made with excellent limes. It was nice to sit outside, sipping drinks (though Jess felt compelled to look up other drinks from the menu on her Blackberry: Cuba Libre, Cucaracha, Submarino and Mayan Sacrifice, none of which we sampled).

Having started the evening off right, we decided to have a light dinner. We wandered around the main street a bit, but none of the touristy options appealed to us, so we walked over to the next street. A couple blocks up, we came across Loncheria el Poc-Chuc, a diner-like spot. We found a small plate we hadn't had before: picadas con carne (which turned out to be shallow corn tortilla boats filled with beans and topped with beef, cheese, onions, cilantro and salsa). They were quite tasty, though Jess found them a little spicy. We tried to order arroz con leche (rice pudding), but they had trouble finding any, and what they did have was moldy. Ugh!

Our next attempt at dessert was Cool Gelato, where we sampled the coffee-kahlua and the mango, which were both excellent. Unfortunately, after the arroz con leche incident, neither of us was really in the mood for ice cream. We continued along to the main square, where the Spring Festival was in full swing. We joined the gathering crowd at the churro stand, watching the vendor fry them up fresh, coat them in cinnamon and sugar, and serve them. Naturally, we had to have some, and they were scrumptious (though a bit more cinnamon would have made them even better). We munched them as we wandered back to our hotel.

Once again, we found ourselves sitting in the hotel courtyard, looking at the day's many pictures and updating this journal, until it was time for bed.