Sailboat Charter in Croatia, May 2024

In May of 2024, 6 years (almost to the day) after we chartered with Karen and Dennis in the BVIs, we chartered with them in Croatia, and sailed around the islands off Split. Here is a record of our journey in words and pictures.

Day 0, wherein our heroes make the long journey to the site of the adventure.

Day 1, wherein our heroes learn about Dalmatians.

Day 2, wherein our heroes launch themselves onto the briny deep and come across the Discoczechs.

Day 3, wherein our heroes encounter their first secret submarine base, and utterly fail to anchor in a lovely cove.

Day 4, wherein our heroes follow recommendations on purpose...and also accidentally.

Day 5, wherein our heroes experience some actually windy conditions, and learn a lot about non-vodka Tito.

Day 6, wherein our heroes largely, but not completely, fail to explore the sea-caves of Dalmatia.

Day 7, wherein our heroes have a tight squeeze.

Day 8, wherein our heroes come very close to playing the game of thrones.

Day 9, wherein half of the party takes their toys and goes home, while the other looks at birds and explores a fortified island.

Day 10, wherein the remainder of our heroes takes their toys and go home.

Lessons learned

  • Definitely charter through 45 Degrees Sailing, with bareboat assist and itinerary planning if it's your first visit to Croatia. Jeremiah wrote a more detailed write-up of the sailing experience, if you're interested.
  • Dalmatia is big, so you don't get much time ashore if you try to see two spots on Hvar and two on Vis in a week (with logistically sensible first and last nights on Šolta; if you don't need shore amenities, Rogač may be more convenient than Maslinica). It may be better to limit your itinerary if you can't stay longer.
  • In Split, take a historical walking tour (ours was a smaller group with Ancient Tours), especially if you don't know a lot about Croatian history; it will provide context for things across Dalmatia. If you visit Vis, take a military tour (we had a good experience with Vis Rent); you'll see cool sights, learn a bit of history and see the island's interior without renting a car.
  • If you do a bit of research (like using the reviews on Google Maps), it's easy to eat well. In Split, we particularly liked Konoba Feral, aMare Gelato (and, near AC Hotel Split, Konoba Stare Grede). On Hvar, Hora Farm was great (and, if you ask nicely, they will wrap up any leftovers for you to take back to your boat), Carić is great for wine (we loved their Nedija), and Za Pod Zub is great for gourmet goodies (like truffle spreads, pečenica and gourmet chocolates). On Vis, you can eat very well in Komiža, going to Robinzon for dinner and Cukar for dessert (get the Komiska Balota!), and the eponymous cookies at Viški Cvit in Vis town are delicious even if you're not an anise lover. We didn't have bad food anywhere, but Laf in Split took forever to bring our main courses, and Bakery Kolđeraj on Vis was just okay (with their puff pastry items and donuts being the better choices).
  • When provisioning, make a point of getting local products (especially fruits and veggies). The green market in Split is a good place to start. Also, try the local meats, cheeses and wines (assuming they are compatible with your dietary requirements): we particularly liked Mister Truffle cheese and pečenica for snacking, plus tilsit and pršut on sandwiches.
  • Sailboats have fenders for a reason: they are amazing, and you should trust them.
  • A post-charter note: the bus between Trogir and Split stops near Marina Kaštela, Kula Kaštilac and the airport. It's cheap and easy but it can be crowded and it isn't especially quick, and in Split it stops near the AC Hotel Split, 20-30 minutes from Diocletian's Palace. (Google Maps is useful for bus times and transfers.) The drivers speak some English and can make change or you tap-to-pay with a credit card. There are ticket inspectors on some buses, so make sure you have a valid ticket. Uber is also available and apparently cheaper than a taxi.